Sunday, July 20, 2014


Day 26

This morning I decided to sleep in since we woke up so early last night.
For breakfast I learnt how to make 'real' quesadillas. I had them with avocados. Yum! I have decided that this is definitely a type of breakfast that I could make for myself at home during the weekend. I had them with tortillas de harina, which I think are a bit lighter than tortillas de mais.

I decided to take a little adventure around the city myself. I went to the Hospicio Cabanas/Instituto Cultural Cabanas. Previously, it used to be an orphanage. It was made by an architect from Spain called Manuel Tolsa, and founded by Bishop don Juan Cruz Ruiz de Cabanas. 

The whole thing was constructed in just 5 years from 1805-1810. From 1937 to 1939, Jose Clemente Orozco painted 57 murals/frescos in this building. The frescos are of Jalisco before and during the conquest of the Spaniards. They are very dark, bloody, and violent with contrasting images of iron and metal with flesh, and fire. They are very powerful.

For me it was evident that Orozco was very observant concerning points of view, perspective, and aware of the space and surface because no matter from what angle one is looking at the murals they always show something new, a new perspective, a new interpretation of the whole thing. I can just imagine the amount of planning, organization, and work that went into painting something like this. He was truly a great artist.

What do you think? 

After, I went to the Palacio de Gobierno. This building was completed in 1774. It also houses two murals by Orozco.

The main character of both of these murals is Miguel Hidalgo. He was a priest who launched the fight for independence from Spain. The opportunity came when Napoleon occupied Spain back in Europe, and powers were shifting. The rebellion broke out on September 16th, 1810 and was led by Hidalgo. 

In many of the murals there are images and symbols of fascism, communism, and Catholicism. At the time, I guess Orozco was very aware of the rise of fascism in Europe in the 1930s and was protesting against it in his own way. With fascism, like the Italian Futurist movement, I personally always associate it to different metals touching and functioning together, which are very represented in these murals. At the same time, the metal is a very powerful symbol of communism and the working class with the hammer and the sickle, also being present. Do you agree?

Here is better picture of the main cathedral in Guadalajara:

When I came home, we went to lunch with the family. We drove to Zapopan to eat at a very traditional Mexican restaurant. At the restaurant they had lots of clay dishes, which I love. Also, the decoration inside was lovely.
The Gate of Zapopan
I had tacos dorados which were very good. I had 3, one with frijoles, one with potatoes, and another with cheese. It was really nice not to eat meat. I also tried sopas.

At the restaurant they had pico de gallo with queso which I loved. I think that this is better than the original even. For dessert I had a quemadita. This is a heavily toasted tostada with cajeta and cheese. It was very, very good.
The chef making the tortillas:

Later on in the evening, we went to Chapultepec. This is artistic part of the city. On Saturday evenings they have a very nice market/tianguis. Vendors sold organic products, hand-made crafts, native art, clothing from local brands, and various activities for children. It was very nice.

Have a lovely Sunday,

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